There is a dive site on the Caribbean island of Bonaire that wasn’t named for the fish one might see, the coral formations making up its structure or for romantic reason one might dive it. It was named for the way in which the first divers entered the water. The name of this dive site is Rappel.

The idea behind such an unusual method of getting in the water was to see if rappelling – descending a mountain or the face of a cliff by using ropes – was possible in full scuba equipment. 

Stan Gdowksi, a mountaineer and diver from New Jersey, traveled to Bonaire with all the gear and was in charge of all the aspects of the rappel. He also explained the techniques to me and together we made many practice descents on small faces of cliffs. Finally, after I felt reasonably assured that I was ready, a suitable location was chosen for the actual rappel in full scuba gear. We soon found it was possible, without too much danger, but the main feature of the entire exercise was what we discovered upon entering the water. Until now, the area was untouched, and neither of us expected such beauty underwater. 

Rappel is like no other reef on Bonaire. The 65-foot sheer face above the water line continues underwater to a depth of about 35 feet. Here the reef flattens out to a ledge about 50 to 70 feet wide before taking a spectacular drop to several hundred feet. Both the shallows and the drop-off are covered with corals of every color and description. 

Just below the present-day water level is a beautiful undercut formed when the oceans were lower. It is like swimming in a cave, but with one side completely open. Waves smash overhead, causing a churning of white water, and a deep rumble that a diver can both hear and feel. Pockets of air trapped in crevices and holes disappear when a wave strikes and then suddenly return as the wave recedes. Along the cavern are orange cup corals, many of which – because of the low light –are out feeding. Their tiny orange tentacles wave relentlessly in the surge. 

Because the shallow area directly under the cavern is well covered in shadows from the overhead cliff, interesting available light photography can be done easily. Contrast from the outlined undercut and the blue water gives a very unusual effect. Sunlight beams down from the surface. Divers need only swim a few feet out of the shadow to become completely covered in strong sunlight, enough that a strobe is not absolutely essential. 

At one time a very small section of Rappel was used as a dumping area for electrical fixtures such as air conditioners and small transformers. This was long before the rules governing the protection of Bonaire’s reefs were in effect. The dive operators on Bonaire got together, and with the help of about 10 divers, removed almost every piece of debris, making Rappel perhaps one of the most beautiful and unique reefs on Bonaire.

At Carib Inn we take boat trips to Rappel and tie up to the permanent mooring, so no anchors will damage the reef. It is no longer necessary to push off the top of the cliff with rope and carabineers, laden down with full scuba gear to see the reef and fish! Just stride in and enjoy the amazing sights.

For more information, visit caribinn.com or email us at bb@caribinn.com. Let’s make a trip to Rappel a reality.

Bruce Bowker’s Carib Inn

Bruce Bowker's Carib Inn is a resort dedicated to the needs and requirements of destination divers.

Although many guests simply love to soak in Bonaire’s calm, tranquil ambiance, diving and snorkeling the Caribbean’s turquoise waters is Carib Inn’s main attraction. With a PADI certified dive shop, breathtaking dive sites just offshore and eleven comfy resort suites, Carib Inn has everything a traveling diver could need.

Visit caribinn.com to book your dive today!